Autumn relaxation and flavours

Begin at Scipione Castle, the oldest in the Parma province. The guided tours on weekends take about an hour and bring you through furnished rooms, secret passages and the famous Devil's Parlour. The castle has a special atmosphere in the colder months — fewer visitors, quieter corridors, and the ghost legend feels more plausible. The loggia with views over the autumn hills is a highlight.

From the castle, drive two kilometres down to Salsomaggiore centre. Walk through the pedestrian streets admiring the Art Nouveau facades, Palazzo dei Congressi and Parco Mazzini, then arrive at the monumental Palazzo Berzieri — now home to QC Terme Salsomaggiore. If you'd like to add a wellness experience to the day, this is the moment: the spa is open all day with pools, saunas and rooftop panoramic pools. Otherwise, simply admire the restored facade and stop at one of the historic cafés for a coffee — some still have their original early 20th-century interiors.

Head to Trattoria Ceriati in the hills above Salsomaggiore for a seasonal lunch. In autumn, the menu features fresh porcini mushrooms with homemade pasta — tagliatelle ai funghi is the dish to order. In winter, the hearty anolini in brodo and bolliti are perfect for cold days. The setting is a rustic trattoria in the countryside of Cangelasio, with a warm, family atmosphere. Closed Tuesdays, always book ahead.

On the way back to the Podere, make two final stops. First, the Abbey of Chiaravalle della Colomba — visit the cloister and the basilica in the afternoon quiet, and pick up a bottle of the monks' liqueur from the distillery. Then stop at Pane e Salame in Castelnuovo Fogliani (2 km from the Podere) for cured meats, fresh bread and local cheeses to enjoy as an evening aperitivo at your apartment. The perfect ending to a slow day.