A day of villages and Parmigiano
Duration
Full day
For whom
Couples, families
Stagione
Year-round (ideal in spring and autumn)
Difficolta
Easy
This is the itinerary I recommend most to my guests: it combines the two most beautiful villages in the area with an authentic food experience, all in a relaxed day without rushing. It works in every season, but it's particularly lovely in spring and autumn, when the light on the hills is at its best and the villages are less crowded.
All stops are reachable in just a few minutes by car from the Podere. The total route is about 35 kilometres on scenic hill roads.
Le tappe
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1. Castell'Arquato: village and fortress
9:00 AM – 12:00 PM
Arrive early in the morning, when the village is still quiet. Park at the bottom and walk up towards the monumental square: the path through the stone alleyways is part of the experience. Visit the Visconti Fortress (€5 ticket, about 45 minutes) and climb to the top of the keep for the valley view. Then head to the Romanesque Collegiate Church — free entry — and if geology interests you, stop at the Cortesi Museum. Before lunch, browse the village shops for a taste of Monterosso DOC wine. -
2. Lunch at a traditional trattoria
12:30 PM – 2:00 PM
After the morning in the village, stop for lunch at one of the trattorias I recommend. Trattoria Da Luigi in Bacedasco (on the road to Vigoleno) serves traditional Piacenza cuisine: try the pisarei e fasö or the fresh pasta with porcini. If you prefer to stay near Castell'Arquato, Trattoria Botteghino is another excellent choice. Remember to book ahead — local trattorias fill up quickly, especially at weekends. -
3. Parmigiano Reggiano at the dairy
2:30 PM – 3:30 PM
After lunch, head to Caseificio La Madonnina, a small local cheese dairy about 8 km from the Podere. Here you can see how Parmigiano Reggiano is made and buy directly from the producer — wheels at various ages, from young and mild to 36 months and beyond. The dairy also sells local cured meats and other specialities. It's a genuine, unpolished experience: this is not a tourist show, it's a real working dairy. -
4. Vigoleno at sunset
4:00 PM – sunset
The grand finale of the day. From the dairy, it's a short drive through the beautiful hills to Vigoleno. Arrive in the late afternoon to explore the village at your pace: climb to the keep for the view, visit the Romanesque Parish Church, wander through the alleys. As the sun begins to set, the walls turn golden and the valley below fills with soft light. Stop at Bollicine & Tortafritta just outside the walls for an aperitivo with torta fritta, cured meats and a glass of Vin Santo di Vigoleno. This is the moment you'll remember.