Rivalta Castle (Gazzola)

Rivalta Castle is one of the most atmospheric castles in the Piacenza hills, perched on a cliff above the Trebbia river — which Hemingway called the most beautiful river in the world. The castle has been home to the Zanardi Landi family since the 15th century and is still their private residence, which gives it a lived-in warmth that museum-castles often lack.

Guided tours lead through furnished rooms spanning centuries of family life: from the medieval kitchen and the armoury to the elegant 18th-century salons. The most famous resident, however, is a ghost: Giuseppe, a castle cook who was caught in a love affair with the marchioness and met a grisly end. His spirit is said to wander the corridors at night — and the castle plays up this legend with atmospheric tours. The dungeons and the tower room add to the mood.

The medieval village at the foot of the castle is beautifully preserved and has a handful of restaurants and a small hotel. The views from the castle walls over the Trebbia valley are magnificent, especially in autumn when the vineyards turn gold.

Tip: combine Rivalta with a swim or picnic along the Trebbia river in summer (there are beautiful pebbly beaches near Bobbio and Travo), or with a visit to Grazzano Visconti (15 minutes away). Check the website for tour times — typically weekends and holidays.