Parma

Parma is the nearest major art city to Podere Montevalle, and one of the most beautiful in Emilia-Romagna. In about 40 minutes by car, you reach a city that combines extraordinary art, outstanding food culture and an elegant, liveable atmosphere — compact enough to explore on foot in a day.

What to see

The heart of the city is Piazza del Duomo, one of Italy's finest Romanesque squares. The Cathedral houses Correggio's breathtaking fresco of the Assumption of the Virgin (1526–1530) inside the dome — lie on the floor or use the mirrors provided to appreciate it fully. Next to the cathedral, the Baptistery (1196) by Benedetto Antelami is a masterpiece of pink Verona marble, with an octagonal interior entirely covered in 13th-century frescoes. Entry to the Baptistery is around €8.

A short walk away, the Camera di San Paolo in the former Benedictine convent contains another Correggio masterpiece: a private dining room painted with mythological scenes for the abbess Giovanna da Piacenza (1519). Nearby, the monumental Palazzo della Pilotta houses the National Gallery (with works by Correggio, Parmigianino, Canova, Leonardo, Van Dyck), the stunning wooden Teatro Farnese (1618) — one of the first permanent proscenium theatres in the world — and the Bodoni Museum of typography.

The Teatro Regio, Parma's opera house, has been a temple of Italian opera since 1829. Even if you don't attend a performance, the elegant neoclassical facade on Strada Garibaldi is worth seeing. The surrounding streets — Via Farini, Via Cavour, Borgo Pipa — are lined with food shops, bookshops and cafés.

Cross the river to the Parco Ducale, a large formal garden designed in the 16th century for the Farnese family, perfect for a relaxing walk or a picnic.

What to eat

Parma is the gastronomic capital of Italy. Don't miss: prosciutto di Parma and Parmigiano Reggiano (try them in any bar or trattoria), anolini in brodo (the Parma version of the stuffed pasta), torta fritta with salumi, and violetta di Parma (violet-flavoured sweets, a local tradition since the Duchess Maria Luigia). The city centre is full of trattorias, wine bars and food shops.

Practical information

From the Podere, take the A1 motorway from Fidenza (20 minutes to the motorway, then 15 minutes to Parma). Parking is available in the city centre (Parcheggio Goito, Parcheggio Toschi) and near the Pilotta. Allow a full day for a thorough visit, or a half-day for the highlights.