Piacenza

Piacenza is the provincial capital and the first major city of Emilia-Romagna coming from the north. Less touristed than Parma but no less rewarding, it has a remarkable concentration of art, history and good food — and it's about 40 minutes from the Podere.

What to see

Start at Piazza Cavalli, one of the most striking squares in the Po Valley, dominated by the 13th-century Palazzo Gotico — a magnificent medieval palace with its marble and brick facade, rose window and open loggia — and by the two famous equestrian statues by Francesco Mochi (1620–1625), considered masterpieces of Baroque sculpture.

Walk to the Cathedral (12th century), a superb Romanesque-Lombard church with frescoes by Guercino and Ludovico Carracci in the dome and apse. Then head to Palazzo Farnese, the imposing Renaissance palace begun by the Farnese family and never completed. It now houses the Civic Museums, including an archaeological section, a collection of coaches and carriages, and — the highlight — the Ritratto di Signora by Gustav Klimt, one of only a handful of Klimt works in Italian public collections, rediscovered in 2019 after being stolen in 1997.

Also worth visiting: Santa Maria di Campagna, a Renaissance church with a dome spectacularly frescoed by Pordenone (1530–1535); the Galleria Ricci Oddi, a fine collection of 19th–20th century Italian painting; and the Basilica of Sant'Antonino, the city's patron saint.

What to eat

Piacenza has its own distinct food culture. Look for: pisarei e fasö (the signature pasta-and-bean dish), anolini in brodo, bortellina (a thin fried flatbread served with cured meats), coppa piacentina DOP and salame piacentino DOP, and torta di patate. The city centre has excellent trattorias and wine bars.

Practical information

From the Podere, take the provincial road towards Fiorenzuola d'Arda and then the A1 or Via Emilia towards Piacenza (about 40 minutes). Parking near the centre: Parcheggio Pubblico Stazione or Piazzale Marconi. Allow a half-day for the essential sights, a full day to explore thoroughly.